Off The Beaten Path

As a writer, I’ve worked with a group of local artists to promote their activities and annual fall tour, the Off The Beaten Path Studio Tour held the last full weekend of October in and around DeKalb County.Aptly named, it also describes the lifestyles they and we have chosen here in rural Tennessee. To some, our deep woods, hills and hollows, creeks and dirt roads may sound idyllic. It’s a way of life, like any other with its own challenge and rewards.

There’s something we all draw from these surroundings, an abiding peace away from the chaos which too often defines modern life. Sure, it can intrude this far, but there’s the landscape, and buckets of stars at nigh,t to re-orient our personal compass.

We chose to be here, accepted the good and bad of rural life. And though we all aspire to the financial rewards success in our respective arts may bring, there’s a success we already enjoy in choosing our way and making a life on our terms. That’s the draw and reward for those bold enough to wander “off the beaten path.”

Fall's Colors Coming On

Fall is long and warm in the hills this year. Though some were predicting a dearth of colors,the season has again come on in all its glory. I’m looking out now at a landscape ablaze with reds and orange, yellows and fading greens.

What’s most noteworthy about this fall, however, is the bountiful harvest of nuts and fruits. The limbs of apple and pear trees in the area seem overburdened. I’ve never seen as many walnuts on the black walnut in our yard. I’ve already raked a regular season’s worth and as many, if not more, still cling to the branches.

There’s differing theories about this. Some say the bountiful harvest is nature’s way of protecting itself against a pending harsh winter. By spring we’ll know if there’s truth to that. 

The other notion proposes an alternative strategy. Dry years put a lot of stress on trees. Several long-standing hickories and oaks succumbed to the lack of water by late August. Under such conditions, proponents hold, trees go into overproduction of seeds as a way of ensuring survival, come spring

Whatever the cause, the harvest is ours to enjoy. 

Tennessee Archaeology: Arrowhead Show, Relic Hunters Highlight Rich Native American History

Tennessee has a rich heritage predating modern history, and it’s all around us, literally anywhere you look, right down to the dirt under your feet. 

Walk any plowed field after a spring rain, wander the shores of our lakes reservoirs, creeks and rivers, and you could  discover echoes of that past in the many stone tools, pottery and other items those people left behind.

I’ve been hooked ever since I stumbled across my first arrowhead in a walk across a field. Now, whenever I spy a patch of bare earth, I always scour the ground for a telltale shard of flint. Rarely , when out on a “hunt” have I failed to find some evidence of those who walked here before.

If you’re interested in this sort of thing, Tennessee’s outstanding State Museum in Nashville has an excellent collection and section chronicling the local prehistory and prior cultures.p. If you’re up to something less formal, check out the relic  or “arrowhead shows”  held in various sites across the state throughout the year. This past weekend I stopped by the fall show at Baxter Elementary School in Baxter, TN in Putnam County.

It’s sponsored by the Volunteer State Archaeological Society, one of 19 state groups affiliated with the Central State Archaeological Societies 

These shows, usually free, give you a dirt under the fingernails intro to archaeology, as amateurs show off their collections, and share stories of their finds with anyone who will listen. The relics they’ve massed are often museum quality, and many are offered for sale. Displays this weekend included arrow and speak points, all types of tools, grinding stones and bowls, bone awls, beads, axe heads

It can be a fun way for a quick survey part of Tennessee history. Check the websites for next years show schedule.

World's Biggest Treehouse in Crossville

Tennessee has all sorts of hidden treasures. One well worth exploring is the world’s biggest treehouse, just off Interstate 40 in Crossville up on the Cumberland Plateau. 

Unfortunately,  the place was closed by the state fire marshall this past summer. We’re on watch for word of its re-opening. Below is my original review:

Tennessee has all sorts of hidden treasures, and this past weekend we explored one: the world’s biggest treehouse, just off Interstate 40 in Crossville up on the Cumberland Plateau.

Words and pictures can’t fully convey the marvel of what Horace Burgess has created at the end of Beehive Road there. Inspired by God, since 1993 he’s been working on this expansive complex built entirely of scrap and donated lumber on and around a towering white oak.  The house itself sprawls up and out in all directions, much like that massive tree.

It’s like a fun house on a grand scale with crooked, winding stairs, halls to nowhere, many rooms, layers of decks and ample seating throughout.  If you climb all the way to the top, you can ring the bells in the bell tower.

At center of this straggling complex is a chapel for pause and reflection of all one man has achieved with discarded materials. And, he’s opened this labor of love to all, free of charge.

If you go, bring a marker to show you’ve been there, and don’t miss the donation box where the winding stairs begin their climb along the tree. 

His generous spirit deserves a little support; if he asked, many would be more than willing to pay for the privilege of rambling though the treehouse

You can read an article and see some great shots here

Savage Gulf Redux

We were so enamored with our visit to the Stone Door at Savage Gulf last March we made a return trip this weekend. This time, we took the trail through the door, then down to and through the gulf, and back up along the same rim trail we followed on previous visit. Trees all full now, couldn’t see nearly as much down in the gulf from any of the cliffs.

Total hike came in around 10 miles, including a spur to Ranger Falls in the bottom. Well worth it. The gulf trail is a little challenging, both at descent, then at the end in the long ascent out to Alum Campsite. Worst of it the long climb out at the end. Day we went weather cool, but on a hot summer’s day there’s ample opportunity to swim along the trail.

After winding thought he woods trail lads to a boulder-strewn wash. At very bottom there’s a spur trail to Ranger Falls, well worth the .4 mile trek. Saw many signs of high water during recent heavy rains, so this could be dangerous on days prone to late afternoon thunderstorms that live up to gully-washer label. The falls is wide and disappears off to the right. Very nice.

From there the trail resumes. Next point of interest identified on map as “sink.” On the left, a small waterfall, likely a trickle in drier months. From the right the stream rolls over several cascades, before disappearing. Good setting to cool off. 

From the sink, the trails parallels the stream for a good ways. Scenic with sound as water tumbles over boulders then gathers in many small pools. Finally the trail breaks to the right and begins the long climb out, toughest part of the hike. 

At the top, Alum, caught the rim trail back to Stone Door, then the ranger station. Pretty much a level hike,with several scenic bluffs. In a couple of places the trail winds along the edge of the cliff, with a straight drop, so caution is advised.

Nice hike for any season, and we had the place pretty much to ourselves the entire run. Should be spectacular in the fall.

AN EASY HIKE AT BURGESS FALLS

My hiking buddy and I spent a rainy Sunday afternoon at Burgess Falls, a state natural area bordering Putnam and White counties. It’s a great place for a family trek to the outdoors any time of year, for solace in winter, swimming in summer. 

There’s a couple of short trails. The main trail, a mile and a half loop, winds along the Falling Water River and three small falls. The main event is Burgess Falls itself, a picture perfect waterfall. You can climb an enclosed stairway along the bluff, then a rocky trail down to the base of the falls. In summer, it’s a great place to swim, or just cool off in the refreshing mist.

We hiked down river past the remnants of two hydro-electric power plants which once provided electricity for nearby Cookeville. The first of these, nearest the falls, is pretty dangerous as the concrete floor has rotted through. Stay on the trail. The foundation of the second, a little further downstream, is still intact, and there’s odd pieces of equipment lying around—try and figure out how they were used.

Back on top, you can follow the service road back, or there’s a trail tracing the ridge leads to nice vistas of the gorge below. It’s an flat run through the woods. Both the river trail and service road trail have one steep climb, otherwise easy jaunts.

At the parking lot there’s picnic shelters and a children’s playground.

Burgess Falls is a nice place to spend an afternoon, with some great scenery, in any season.

SAVAGE GULF AND THE STONE DOOR

Finally made it to the Savage Gulf, part of the South Cumberland Recreation Area, in Tennessee’s outstanding state park system. 

We visited the Stone Door end, took the Big Creek Rim and Laurel trails as a loop, after hiking through the Stone Door. Also took the short loop to Laurel Falls from the visitors center. Total hiked, about eight miles in a leisurely five hours. 

Ranger station well set up with ample paved parking, bathrooms, sign in/map station and . Excellent free map of all trails and sites. Trail from there to first overlook paved for a nice view of the gulf. 

Then the hike through the woods begins to Stone Door. That alone worth it, especially the climb up and down the many steps through the door. How many Indians, pioneers and tourists have passed that way? 

Word of caution to anyone with children venturing even this far. The Stone Door trail leads to first of many bluffs—cliffs might be a more apt description—with a straight drop off the edge into the gulf. Watch where you walk, and keep those kiddies close at hand. 

From top of Stone Door the Big Creek Rim Trail begins. It’s a three mile amble through the woods,

returning again and again to natural rock outcroppings overlooking the gulf. Some breathtaking views of woods, gulf, and trail far down below, the roar of a hidden waterfall shouting up to you. Buzzards saunter in and out of view, gliding their thermals. Early spring the gulf is dotted with splotches of maple reds and oranges and yellow greens of early blooming poplars. 

Not crowded at all so we took a break from the trail on one of these bluffs, had the whole gulf to ourselves, just watch and listen and take it all in. Trail eventually leads to the Alum Gap campground, primitive campsites, permits required. 

From there our loop back followed the Laurel Trail another three miles back to the Ranger station. An easy, uneventful walk, save for the stands of mountain laurel and patches of club moss breaking up the woods. Best for late April or May when the laurel is in all its glory. 

We had a great time, and only touched all there is to see or hike at Savage Gulf.