Start Sending Your The Invitations Out Now For Tennessee’s Big Summer Solar Event

        Friends and family been promising to visit you here in The Volunteer State?

This summer brings one of the best excuses to make that journey and discover all Tennessee offers.

Monday, August 21 a good swath of the state will be directly in the path of one of the most anticipated of all celestial events: a total eclipse of the sun! 

        For almost three minutes early that afternoon the sun will be transformed into a black sphere, surrounded by its dramatic, blazing corona. For young and old, observer and photographer, it’s an opportunity to experience what is truly a once-in-a-lifetime event, right here at home

The path of the total eclipse through Tennessee

Total solar eclipses are so rare in any part of the world that people plan and communities promote vacations and tours around them. Nashville, the largest American city in the path of full totality, has already taken that lead, billing itself as the Music City Total Eclipse  on its tourism website, complete with a countdown clock. Tennessee’s celebrated state parks are also talking it up, with a page devoted to the eclipse, including duration for observers in each park. 

Wherever you live, you can also find out when and how long the eclipse will be visible in your area on sites like The Great American Eclipse  and  Eclipse2017.or

        

        So here’s your opportunity: Get those invitations out now.

        And, start praying for blue skies next August 21.

Stones River Remembered As A Turning Point In Tennessee's Rich Civil War History

Confederate re-enactors fire a volley
 at Stones River National Battlefield in Murfreesboro.

As the old year wound down, history buffs gathered at Stones River National Battlefield to commemorate the start of one of the Civil War’s bloodiest encounters, in Murfreesboro along the old Nashville Pike. December 31, 1862 through January 2 ,1863 an estimated 81,000 soldiers of the Union and Confederacy valiantly fought there for control of Middle Tennessee.The Battle of Stones River, one of the war’s bloodiest, was ultimately decided as a much-needed victory for the North just as the Emancipation Proclamation became the law of the land.

Each year the rangers at Stones River, and volunteer re-enactors, present days of events timed to the battle, as it unfolded. Ours focused on its bloody beginnings at locations appropriately memorialized as “The Slaughter Pen” and “Hell’s Half Acre.”

The programs provide insight into the terror, confusion, determination  and sacrifices of all engaged. Re-enactors in uniforms of both armies fire authentic rifles and artillery, as eyewitness accounts of the battles are read. 

Anyone interested in state and national history, and Tennessee’s vital importance to both armies, will gain much from a visit to Stones River, or any of the state’s five other nationally protected Civil War sites: Shiloh National Military Park,  Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park, Cumberland Gap National Historic Park, Fort Donelson National Battlefield and the Andrew Johnson National Historic Site.

The “War Between The States” touched all corners of Tennessee in one way or another. To learn more, download or pick up a copy of Tennessee’s Civil War Trail map, compiled to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the end of the conflict (available on the Civil War Traveler website), or Tennessee Tourism's guide to the war, as lived throughout the state.

The Wisdom of The Walking Stick: A Lesson Learned Hiking Rock Island State Park

The Tennessee Traveler would like to impart some painfully gained wisdom for all who enjoy hiking Tennessee’s great outdoors: Bring A Walking Stick.

It’s common sense advise too easily forgotten and ignored, with potentially dire consequences.

I speak from experience.

A friend and I were hiking the Caney Fork River gorge above the Great Falls at Rock Island State Park. We entered near the Cotton Mill, followed the Old Mill trail down, then broke off the main trail for a path leading down to gorge and river. There, we found our way to a narrow break where we could leap from rock to rock over the water,  and pick up the Downstream Trail on the other side.

It’s an easy hike, tracing the bluffs, down the stairs by the power plant, then through the woods, with several great views of the wide falls as it cascades from the opposite bluff. From there, the trail continues to the famed “Blue Hole,” a renowned fishing spot.

Did I mention my hiking buddy brought a walking stick that day, but I’d forgotten mine at home? Keep that in mind.

The return hike was pleasant and uneventful. This time, though we followed the trail beneath the bluff all the way back to where the river back fills a wide pool, sort of a lagoon. Our intention was to find an alternate way across the river, but discovered it was too wide, deep and roaring there. So, we backtracked for the trail, making our way around that pool.

As I stepped forward from a pocket  between rocks my foot got caught, I lost my balance and fell forward. 

THWACK!!! 

The right side of my face met the limestone shelf at full force. I never lost consciousness, but as I reached up I expected to feel broken pieces of my skull. Instead, only a spot of blood, a point already forming below my temple, my jaw hurt and an intense headache. Worse, though, I saw everything double, not vertically but horizontally, making it very difficult to discern my way forward. 

With my friend’s help and a walking stick pulled from the debris, I slowly made my way back along the trail and across the river. My head throbbing, I got down to crawl as needed, but still had to manage that leap. He went first, braced himself, then extended his stick for me to grab while I maneuvered along the edge of the rock. Then I jumped, grabbed that stick mid-air and he pulled me over.

I made it! The rest of our hike out was routine was routine but slow. Within the hour we were out of there, and I was driving myself home with an intense headache.

I stubbornly suffered through the night, but next morning I headed for the doctor, fearing there could be bleeding on my brain.

  A CT scan revealed no blood or concussion but extensive damage—nine fractures—to the right side of my face. My maxillary sinus was also shattered, front and rear. The doctor was shocked I felt to real pain.

I’m recuperating now with a new mission: remind every hiker to bring and use a walking/hiking stick wherever and whenever it makes sense. 

        That “third leg” would have made all the difference, and easily prevented my fall.

Please, learn from my mistake.

Black History in Tennessee: The Lorraine Motel and National Civil Rights Museum

April 4, 1968
Memphis, Tennessee

 If you’re of a certain age, the date and place stirs the image of a collective memory: men standing around the body of a dying Martin Luther King, Jr., pointing from the balcony of the Lorraine Motel at a building across the way where the fatal shot originated.

It’s a pivotal moment in Black and American history, the tragic loss of a great leader. His words and actions still inspire and challenge we, as one nation, to grow toward our potential and live the principles we aspire to.

When in Memphis make your pilgrimage to the Lorraine Motel, now home of the National Civil Rights Museum. Just to be in that space, knowing what transpired there, forces a soul searching upon you. 

A wreath on the balcony outside room 306 marks the spot where Dr. King fell. The cars parked below, identical to those in that iconic image, are fixed reminders of the tragedy which transpired on that narrow stage. 

To look around the plaza, to realize how near the assassin was as he took aim, to know this is where one chapter ended and another began in the struggle for national equality is to ask yourself what have I done, what more can I do to help realize his dream.

The Museum traces and tells of the struggle for Civil Rights from our earliest history. It’s a worthy education about ugly truths and noble ambitions that can be difficult for white Americans to face. But it is the story of black America, and the empowerment of basic human dignity.

The Lorraine Motel is one of Tennessee’s historic sites one cannot visit, and turn away unmoved.

Start Planning Your Tennessee Vacation

Looking ahead to spring and summer? 

There’s no better time to start planning your Tennessee vacation!

If you’ve never visited the Volunteer State or you’re a resident who hasn’t fully explored the many glories of Tennessee, you’ll be surprised and thrilled with all there is to discover here.  From  the Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the banks of the Mississippi River, our western border, Tennessee truly holds something for everyone!

We Tennesseans are proud of our state and it’s breathtaking scenery, unique heritage and destinations, and many contributions to popular music and culture. 

For lovers of the great outdoors, Tennessee State Parks  are second to none.  Scattered across the state, these jewels preserve our natural beauty and archaeological legacy while offering visitors the best in hiking, camping, boating or fishing. Urban explorers will be rewarded for visits to Memphis, Nashville, Chattanooga, Knoxville, or any of our smaller towns and cities, as well.

Throughout the year The Tennessee Traveler will do our part to point you toward worthy destinations and events across the state. 

Tourists and visitors will also find the Tennessee Department of Tourism has all the resources to to help plan a fun-filled vacation for the entire family here. Plans for your Tennessee adventure should start at the official website, Tennessee Vacation. There you can order or download the official 2016 Tennessee Vacation Guide. 

Anyone driving through our state should take advantage of our Discover Tennessee Trails and Byways program.  Currently this state-wide network features 16 different road trips, each devoted to a theme. Plans are underway to link all trails with a special “musical heritage” trail later this year. The roots of rock and roll, the blues, country, gospel and rhythm and blues all run deep in Tennessee!

Entirely self guided, you can start downone of these trails wherever you are, wherever you’re headed in Tennessee. Each trail map includes recommended stops along your way: historical sites, popular attractions, small towns, natural landmarks, great restaurants and venues!

It’s never too early to start planning a great vacation in Tennessee, and the  maps  and apps to make it easy are easily avaialble!

Y’all come...

Family Fun On Shores of The Mississippi: Memphis’ Bass Pro Shops At The Pyramid

If you’ve shopped any of Bass Pro Shop’s superstores, you know the unique experience they offer. Part store, part amusement park in retail space stocked with anything and everything you could want in sporting goods. All set among dazzling displays celebrating hunting, fishing and the great outdoors.

The company has topped them all with the adventures awaiting shoppers of all ages in Bass Pro Shops at The Pyramid in Memphis. Hopefully, with this incarnation, the architectural landmark on the eastern shores of the Mississippi River will find the permanence and purpose it so richly deserves. Hats off to Memphis and the folks at Bass Pro Shops.

Step through the massive entrance at the base of the silver, gleaming pyramid and you’re first struck by the cypress trees towering from the sales floor. Then, as the eyes adjust, you start to take in the your surroundings. Two levels of an unparalleled selection of sports equipment and sportswear await discovery. 

As you move from department to department you meander paths through cypress ponds stocked with giant catfish and gar, among others. There’s also a jumbo freshwater aquarium, alligator pool with live alligators, and faux cliffs teeming with bear, deer and mountain goat. Family members can dine and bowl in the store’s Uncle Buck’s Fishbowl on the ground floor, The lanes are set in an ocean-themed bowling alley, while an adjacent bar submerges shoppers in the remains of a sunken ship. For snackers there’s also a fudge/candy shop nearby.

Across the way, The Big Cypress Lodge, a hotel within this store, welcomes overnight guests. In keeping with the surroundings, they can choose from rustic rooms or treehouse cabins above the cypress swamp.

Then there’s the Sky High Ride. At the center of the expansive sales floor, America’s tallest freestanding elevator invites the adventurous to soar 28 stories up for breathtaking views of the Tennessee landscape, Memphis and the Mississippi River. Another restaurant here, The Lookout, offers an opportunity to dine or drink, immersed in these vistas. 

Most will prefer to simply step outside to take in the scenery on the glass floored platforms set into the sides of the Pyramid, 300 feet in the air. The Sky High Ride costs $10 for adults, $5 for children before 4 pm, and is definitely worth it.

The Mississippi, looking north from The Pyramid .

         Whether you’re an avid outdoors lover, casual shopper, or parents with children, enjoyable adventures await all at Bass Pro Shops at The Pyramid.  It’s a store, and so much more, and should be on the list of must-see attractions for every visitor to Memphis, from here forward.

Smithville's Old Time Fiddler's Jamboree and Crafts Festival next weekend!

It’s Jamboree season once again in DeKalb County! 

This time of year Smithville,  our county seat, invites everyone in for the Fiddler’s Jamboree and Crafts Festival. This is the 44th year for the event, the biggest thing that happens in these parts. It draws tens of thousands from all over the world for two days of fun and food.

Young cloggers take the stage to dance to some good old time music

at the The Smithville Fiddler's Jamboree and Crafts Festival.

This year's event will be held next Friday and Saturday, July 3rd and 4th, in and around the town square in Smithville, in DeKalb County.
The main stage, where competions are held, sits on the courthouse steps.

Some of the  Jamboree's best music can be heard offstage, though, where musicians gather in the shade for impromptu jams on old time favorites. If you're up for a stroll, there's plenty to see in the many booths which line the square and streets surrounding it. Some celebrate traditional Southern crafts, some more modern renditions of varied arts.

The Jamboree was our first introduction to the area way back in 1977. We’ve been here that long. A third of a century.

Over those years I developed a real fondness for and understanding of  the music the Jamboree celebrates: old time bluegrass and mountain music still popular throughout the South. All acoustic: guitar, banjo, mandolin, upright bass, dobro, dulcimer, and the fiddle of course. 

I now know many of the old time standards contestants play during the various events. Can even strum a few myself on the guitar. One of the joys of country living is to sitting on the front porch in the evening, watching the hills and hollows slip into darkness, strumming some chords on the guitar.

There was a time when that was the only regular entertainment folks in these parts could enjoy, after a long hard day’s work. The Jamboree helps keep those traditions alive. If you're ever in these parts the weekend nearest the Fourth of July it’s worth the trip to Smithville. And if you don’t know what clogging is, well, y’all come.

Off The Beaten Path

As a writer, I’ve worked with a group of local artists to promote their activities and annual fall tour, the Off The Beaten Path Studio Tour held the last full weekend of October in and around DeKalb County.Aptly named, it also describes the lifestyles they and we have chosen here in rural Tennessee. To some, our deep woods, hills and hollows, creeks and dirt roads may sound idyllic. It’s a way of life, like any other with its own challenge and rewards.

There’s something we all draw from these surroundings, an abiding peace away from the chaos which too often defines modern life. Sure, it can intrude this far, but there’s the landscape, and buckets of stars at nigh,t to re-orient our personal compass.

We chose to be here, accepted the good and bad of rural life. And though we all aspire to the financial rewards success in our respective arts may bring, there’s a success we already enjoy in choosing our way and making a life on our terms. That’s the draw and reward for those bold enough to wander “off the beaten path.”

Tennessee Archaeology: Arrowhead Show, Relic Hunters Highlight Rich Native American History

Tennessee has a rich heritage predating modern history, and it’s all around us, literally anywhere you look, right down to the dirt under your feet. 

Walk any plowed field after a spring rain, wander the shores of our lakes reservoirs, creeks and rivers, and you could  discover echoes of that past in the many stone tools, pottery and other items those people left behind.

I’ve been hooked ever since I stumbled across my first arrowhead in a walk across a field. Now, whenever I spy a patch of bare earth, I always scour the ground for a telltale shard of flint. Rarely , when out on a “hunt” have I failed to find some evidence of those who walked here before.

If you’re interested in this sort of thing, Tennessee’s outstanding State Museum in Nashville has an excellent collection and section chronicling the local prehistory and prior cultures.p. If you’re up to something less formal, check out the relic  or “arrowhead shows”  held in various sites across the state throughout the year. This past weekend I stopped by the fall show at Baxter Elementary School in Baxter, TN in Putnam County.

It’s sponsored by the Volunteer State Archaeological Society, one of 19 state groups affiliated with the Central State Archaeological Societies 

These shows, usually free, give you a dirt under the fingernails intro to archaeology, as amateurs show off their collections, and share stories of their finds with anyone who will listen. The relics they’ve massed are often museum quality, and many are offered for sale. Displays this weekend included arrow and speak points, all types of tools, grinding stones and bowls, bone awls, beads, axe heads

It can be a fun way for a quick survey part of Tennessee history. Check the websites for next years show schedule.

World's Biggest Treehouse in Crossville

Tennessee has all sorts of hidden treasures. One well worth exploring is the world’s biggest treehouse, just off Interstate 40 in Crossville up on the Cumberland Plateau. 

Unfortunately,  the place was closed by the state fire marshall this past summer. We’re on watch for word of its re-opening. Below is my original review:

Tennessee has all sorts of hidden treasures, and this past weekend we explored one: the world’s biggest treehouse, just off Interstate 40 in Crossville up on the Cumberland Plateau.

Words and pictures can’t fully convey the marvel of what Horace Burgess has created at the end of Beehive Road there. Inspired by God, since 1993 he’s been working on this expansive complex built entirely of scrap and donated lumber on and around a towering white oak.  The house itself sprawls up and out in all directions, much like that massive tree.

It’s like a fun house on a grand scale with crooked, winding stairs, halls to nowhere, many rooms, layers of decks and ample seating throughout.  If you climb all the way to the top, you can ring the bells in the bell tower.

At center of this straggling complex is a chapel for pause and reflection of all one man has achieved with discarded materials. And, he’s opened this labor of love to all, free of charge.

If you go, bring a marker to show you’ve been there, and don’t miss the donation box where the winding stairs begin their climb along the tree. 

His generous spirit deserves a little support; if he asked, many would be more than willing to pay for the privilege of rambling though the treehouse

You can read an article and see some great shots here

Savage Gulf Redux

We were so enamored with our visit to the Stone Door at Savage Gulf last March we made a return trip this weekend. This time, we took the trail through the door, then down to and through the gulf, and back up along the same rim trail we followed on previous visit. Trees all full now, couldn’t see nearly as much down in the gulf from any of the cliffs.

Total hike came in around 10 miles, including a spur to Ranger Falls in the bottom. Well worth it. The gulf trail is a little challenging, both at descent, then at the end in the long ascent out to Alum Campsite. Worst of it the long climb out at the end. Day we went weather cool, but on a hot summer’s day there’s ample opportunity to swim along the trail.

After winding thought he woods trail lads to a boulder-strewn wash. At very bottom there’s a spur trail to Ranger Falls, well worth the .4 mile trek. Saw many signs of high water during recent heavy rains, so this could be dangerous on days prone to late afternoon thunderstorms that live up to gully-washer label. The falls is wide and disappears off to the right. Very nice.

From there the trail resumes. Next point of interest identified on map as “sink.” On the left, a small waterfall, likely a trickle in drier months. From the right the stream rolls over several cascades, before disappearing. Good setting to cool off. 

From the sink, the trails parallels the stream for a good ways. Scenic with sound as water tumbles over boulders then gathers in many small pools. Finally the trail breaks to the right and begins the long climb out, toughest part of the hike. 

At the top, Alum, caught the rim trail back to Stone Door, then the ranger station. Pretty much a level hike,with several scenic bluffs. In a couple of places the trail winds along the edge of the cliff, with a straight drop, so caution is advised.

Nice hike for any season, and we had the place pretty much to ourselves the entire run. Should be spectacular in the fall.

AN EASY HIKE AT BURGESS FALLS

My hiking buddy and I spent a rainy Sunday afternoon at Burgess Falls, a state natural area bordering Putnam and White counties. It’s a great place for a family trek to the outdoors any time of year, for solace in winter, swimming in summer. 

There’s a couple of short trails. The main trail, a mile and a half loop, winds along the Falling Water River and three small falls. The main event is Burgess Falls itself, a picture perfect waterfall. You can climb an enclosed stairway along the bluff, then a rocky trail down to the base of the falls. In summer, it’s a great place to swim, or just cool off in the refreshing mist.

We hiked down river past the remnants of two hydro-electric power plants which once provided electricity for nearby Cookeville. The first of these, nearest the falls, is pretty dangerous as the concrete floor has rotted through. Stay on the trail. The foundation of the second, a little further downstream, is still intact, and there’s odd pieces of equipment lying around—try and figure out how they were used.

Back on top, you can follow the service road back, or there’s a trail tracing the ridge leads to nice vistas of the gorge below. It’s an flat run through the woods. Both the river trail and service road trail have one steep climb, otherwise easy jaunts.

At the parking lot there’s picnic shelters and a children’s playground.

Burgess Falls is a nice place to spend an afternoon, with some great scenery, in any season.

SAVAGE GULF AND THE STONE DOOR

Finally made it to the Savage Gulf, part of the South Cumberland Recreation Area, in Tennessee’s outstanding state park system. 

We visited the Stone Door end, took the Big Creek Rim and Laurel trails as a loop, after hiking through the Stone Door. Also took the short loop to Laurel Falls from the visitors center. Total hiked, about eight miles in a leisurely five hours. 

Ranger station well set up with ample paved parking, bathrooms, sign in/map station and . Excellent free map of all trails and sites. Trail from there to first overlook paved for a nice view of the gulf. 

Then the hike through the woods begins to Stone Door. That alone worth it, especially the climb up and down the many steps through the door. How many Indians, pioneers and tourists have passed that way? 

Word of caution to anyone with children venturing even this far. The Stone Door trail leads to first of many bluffs—cliffs might be a more apt description—with a straight drop off the edge into the gulf. Watch where you walk, and keep those kiddies close at hand. 

From top of Stone Door the Big Creek Rim Trail begins. It’s a three mile amble through the woods,

returning again and again to natural rock outcroppings overlooking the gulf. Some breathtaking views of woods, gulf, and trail far down below, the roar of a hidden waterfall shouting up to you. Buzzards saunter in and out of view, gliding their thermals. Early spring the gulf is dotted with splotches of maple reds and oranges and yellow greens of early blooming poplars. 

Not crowded at all so we took a break from the trail on one of these bluffs, had the whole gulf to ourselves, just watch and listen and take it all in. Trail eventually leads to the Alum Gap campground, primitive campsites, permits required. 

From there our loop back followed the Laurel Trail another three miles back to the Ranger station. An easy, uneventful walk, save for the stands of mountain laurel and patches of club moss breaking up the woods. Best for late April or May when the laurel is in all its glory. 

We had a great time, and only touched all there is to see or hike at Savage Gulf.