The Wisdom of The Walking Stick: A Lesson Learned Hiking Rock Island State Park

The Tennessee Traveler would like to impart some painfully gained wisdom for all who enjoy hiking Tennessee’s great outdoors: Bring A Walking Stick.

It’s common sense advise too easily forgotten and ignored, with potentially dire consequences.

I speak from experience.

A friend and I were hiking the Caney Fork River gorge above the Great Falls at Rock Island State Park. We entered near the Cotton Mill, followed the Old Mill trail down, then broke off the main trail for a path leading down to gorge and river. There, we found our way to a narrow break where we could leap from rock to rock over the water,  and pick up the Downstream Trail on the other side.

It’s an easy hike, tracing the bluffs, down the stairs by the power plant, then through the woods, with several great views of the wide falls as it cascades from the opposite bluff. From there, the trail continues to the famed “Blue Hole,” a renowned fishing spot.

Did I mention my hiking buddy brought a walking stick that day, but I’d forgotten mine at home? Keep that in mind.

The return hike was pleasant and uneventful. This time, though we followed the trail beneath the bluff all the way back to where the river back fills a wide pool, sort of a lagoon. Our intention was to find an alternate way across the river, but discovered it was too wide, deep and roaring there. So, we backtracked for the trail, making our way around that pool.

As I stepped forward from a pocket  between rocks my foot got caught, I lost my balance and fell forward. 

THWACK!!! 

The right side of my face met the limestone shelf at full force. I never lost consciousness, but as I reached up I expected to feel broken pieces of my skull. Instead, only a spot of blood, a point already forming below my temple, my jaw hurt and an intense headache. Worse, though, I saw everything double, not vertically but horizontally, making it very difficult to discern my way forward. 

With my friend’s help and a walking stick pulled from the debris, I slowly made my way back along the trail and across the river. My head throbbing, I got down to crawl as needed, but still had to manage that leap. He went first, braced himself, then extended his stick for me to grab while I maneuvered along the edge of the rock. Then I jumped, grabbed that stick mid-air and he pulled me over.

I made it! The rest of our hike out was routine was routine but slow. Within the hour we were out of there, and I was driving myself home with an intense headache.

I stubbornly suffered through the night, but next morning I headed for the doctor, fearing there could be bleeding on my brain.

  A CT scan revealed no blood or concussion but extensive damage—nine fractures—to the right side of my face. My maxillary sinus was also shattered, front and rear. The doctor was shocked I felt to real pain.

I’m recuperating now with a new mission: remind every hiker to bring and use a walking/hiking stick wherever and whenever it makes sense. 

        That “third leg” would have made all the difference, and easily prevented my fall.

Please, learn from my mistake.

Savage Gulf Redux

We were so enamored with our visit to the Stone Door at Savage Gulf last March we made a return trip this weekend. This time, we took the trail through the door, then down to and through the gulf, and back up along the same rim trail we followed on previous visit. Trees all full now, couldn’t see nearly as much down in the gulf from any of the cliffs.

Total hike came in around 10 miles, including a spur to Ranger Falls in the bottom. Well worth it. The gulf trail is a little challenging, both at descent, then at the end in the long ascent out to Alum Campsite. Worst of it the long climb out at the end. Day we went weather cool, but on a hot summer’s day there’s ample opportunity to swim along the trail.

After winding thought he woods trail lads to a boulder-strewn wash. At very bottom there’s a spur trail to Ranger Falls, well worth the .4 mile trek. Saw many signs of high water during recent heavy rains, so this could be dangerous on days prone to late afternoon thunderstorms that live up to gully-washer label. The falls is wide and disappears off to the right. Very nice.

From there the trail resumes. Next point of interest identified on map as “sink.” On the left, a small waterfall, likely a trickle in drier months. From the right the stream rolls over several cascades, before disappearing. Good setting to cool off. 

From the sink, the trails parallels the stream for a good ways. Scenic with sound as water tumbles over boulders then gathers in many small pools. Finally the trail breaks to the right and begins the long climb out, toughest part of the hike. 

At the top, Alum, caught the rim trail back to Stone Door, then the ranger station. Pretty much a level hike,with several scenic bluffs. In a couple of places the trail winds along the edge of the cliff, with a straight drop, so caution is advised.

Nice hike for any season, and we had the place pretty much to ourselves the entire run. Should be spectacular in the fall.

AN EASY HIKE AT BURGESS FALLS

My hiking buddy and I spent a rainy Sunday afternoon at Burgess Falls, a state natural area bordering Putnam and White counties. It’s a great place for a family trek to the outdoors any time of year, for solace in winter, swimming in summer. 

There’s a couple of short trails. The main trail, a mile and a half loop, winds along the Falling Water River and three small falls. The main event is Burgess Falls itself, a picture perfect waterfall. You can climb an enclosed stairway along the bluff, then a rocky trail down to the base of the falls. In summer, it’s a great place to swim, or just cool off in the refreshing mist.

We hiked down river past the remnants of two hydro-electric power plants which once provided electricity for nearby Cookeville. The first of these, nearest the falls, is pretty dangerous as the concrete floor has rotted through. Stay on the trail. The foundation of the second, a little further downstream, is still intact, and there’s odd pieces of equipment lying around—try and figure out how they were used.

Back on top, you can follow the service road back, or there’s a trail tracing the ridge leads to nice vistas of the gorge below. It’s an flat run through the woods. Both the river trail and service road trail have one steep climb, otherwise easy jaunts.

At the parking lot there’s picnic shelters and a children’s playground.

Burgess Falls is a nice place to spend an afternoon, with some great scenery, in any season.

SAVAGE GULF AND THE STONE DOOR

Finally made it to the Savage Gulf, part of the South Cumberland Recreation Area, in Tennessee’s outstanding state park system. 

We visited the Stone Door end, took the Big Creek Rim and Laurel trails as a loop, after hiking through the Stone Door. Also took the short loop to Laurel Falls from the visitors center. Total hiked, about eight miles in a leisurely five hours. 

Ranger station well set up with ample paved parking, bathrooms, sign in/map station and . Excellent free map of all trails and sites. Trail from there to first overlook paved for a nice view of the gulf. 

Then the hike through the woods begins to Stone Door. That alone worth it, especially the climb up and down the many steps through the door. How many Indians, pioneers and tourists have passed that way? 

Word of caution to anyone with children venturing even this far. The Stone Door trail leads to first of many bluffs—cliffs might be a more apt description—with a straight drop off the edge into the gulf. Watch where you walk, and keep those kiddies close at hand. 

From top of Stone Door the Big Creek Rim Trail begins. It’s a three mile amble through the woods,

returning again and again to natural rock outcroppings overlooking the gulf. Some breathtaking views of woods, gulf, and trail far down below, the roar of a hidden waterfall shouting up to you. Buzzards saunter in and out of view, gliding their thermals. Early spring the gulf is dotted with splotches of maple reds and oranges and yellow greens of early blooming poplars. 

Not crowded at all so we took a break from the trail on one of these bluffs, had the whole gulf to ourselves, just watch and listen and take it all in. Trail eventually leads to the Alum Gap campground, primitive campsites, permits required. 

From there our loop back followed the Laurel Trail another three miles back to the Ranger station. An easy, uneventful walk, save for the stands of mountain laurel and patches of club moss breaking up the woods. Best for late April or May when the laurel is in all its glory. 

We had a great time, and only touched all there is to see or hike at Savage Gulf.

Polly's Branch

For a year-end hike five of us headed over to the Bridgestone Firestone Centennial Wilderness Area in White County area yesterday. The corporation donated 10,000 acres of Scott’s Gulf to the state a few years ago. What a gift to all! Plenty of trails and much to see if your idea of a great time is the great outdoors

Took the Polly’s Branch trail down to the falls and river. Highly recommended; it was beautiful in winter and can only imagine what it’s like in spring when the stands of rhododendron are in all their glory. Nearby is the Virgin Falls pocket wilderness area and trail, another gem.

You can follow the trail straight in and back or, like we did, as a loop of about seven miles or so. First part of Polly’s Branch trail an easy stroll through the woods of little more than a mile to the first of several falls. From there the trail descends at a gradual climb, past other falls, down to the river, then along it for a good ways. Much to explore. 

Of course whenever you hike to see falls, the hike out involves a climb. This was pretty gradual from the river, and we took the Chestnut Mountain Trail back, for the loop. Once you climb out of the bottom it’s pretty easy but not as well marked or worn as the trail in. We wandered off trail at one point but quickly found out way back.

Only passed one set of campers the whole five hours there so had the entire area to ourselves. All this pristine wonderland there waiting, whenever you take the notion to get out and experience this great state, Tennessee.

Seven plus miles of hiking, fantastic scenery in unspoiled wilds. Great camping sites and plenty of photo ops. A great way to wind down the old year!!!